Bassboat info required

[Bassmar]

Let Smurf redo your carpet. And also check out the trailer. He is currently busy with my carpert.. Also doing the hull to get rid of the oxidisation in the gel coat. And the trailer is having brakes fitted. I expect my 13 year old Rebel to look like new when he is finished.
I saw a Rebel that Richard refurbished recently. It had been standing outside without a cover for a few years. When he finished with it it looked brand new.Top class work.
I know he has some before and after pics. And I am sure he will post them if we as nicely enough.

[Rory]

Would love to see those pics! What would a carpeting job like that cost? In comparison to buying the stuff and doing it myself?

[Navrik]

Welcome to the "hole in the water" club into which you pour money :eusa_whistle:

[Rory]

Okay update time....

1. Tow-bar sorted.

2. Still looking for decent priced charger.

3. Cover sorted.

4. Trefco sold out of life jackets.
Best price for the self inflating small units so far is R1700 EACH!

5. Getting carpeting, foam and glue this week. Any step by step guides on doing this job!?

[Navrik]

As far as the carpeting is concerned I suggest you speak to some of the old hands on the site that has done this more than once before.

Best tip I can give is be careful not to spread the glue too thick as it has tendency to come through the carpets which is not that easy to clean.

If you spill a bit here and there I found a clean cloth with a small bit of Acetone wiped gently the best to clean it with.

Don't remove you hinges unless absolutely necessary or if you are going to replace them make sure you get the replacement hinges first before you remove the old ones. Depending on how they are held in place of course.

What boat did you get?

[Hawkeye]

60 mm Paint Scraper (Be prepared for blisters) when removing the carpet and then a small angle grinder with wire brush works best for removing the remaining glue and even small bits of remaining carpet but be prepared for a mess
Wear a mask and eye protection when doing this

[Rory]

Thanks guys....

[Rory]

Let Smurf redo your carpet. And also check out the trailer. He is currently busy with my carpert.. Also doing the hull to get rid of the oxidisation in the gel coat. And the trailer is having brakes fitted. I expect my 13 year old Rebel to look like new when he is finished.
I saw a Rebel that Richard refurbished recently. It had been standing outside without a cover for a few years. When he finished with it it looked brand new.Top class work.
I know he has some before and after pics. And I am sure he will post them if we as nicely enough.

Gonna do the carpet myself....

[Riprap]

My boat is sitting on tyres on the lawn whilst I do much needed work to the trailer. Most advice recommends automotive carpets on top of the Sondor foam as per this thread but has anyone used Flotex to redo their boat? More expensive I know but it has benefits besides the colour options?

Surely the foam underfoot can't go over into the hatches otherwise the hatches won't be able to close? Well on my seeker anyway. If the self tapping screws on hinges are mostly stripped, is it better to drill new holes in the hinge or what would be the best to plug the oversize holes with before the carpeting goes down? Maybe Smurf could help out.......thanks.

[smurf]

Rip,you have a few dillemi.Easy one first..use the auto carpet with 6mm foam,and this foam must be neoprene,not the normal sponge foam.Using Floatex is nice but it is very difficult to bend into tight areas,like the edge that goes from deck down to hatch as it is a stiff carpet.
The foam stops at the hatch edge and does not continue down into the lip of the hatch.Remember that you need a few hands helping lay that foam.As you are aware,once you lay that foam onto the (spray) contact adhesive,you cannot pull it away and relay...it gets destroyed.Check for air bubbles trapped under the foam before laying the carpet...if you find any,simply slit a few mm in the foam to release.Trim the foam about 20 mm all around the top deck edge...when you now lay the carpet on top,you want the carpet edge to adhere to the glass deck and not to foam.
Most holes that take these stainless self tapping screws wear out over time.Where possible,use small 4mm stainless countersunk machine screws to hold the hinge to the hatch lip and secure the inside with a nice size stainless flat washer and stainless nyloc nut.Be sure the countersunk head sits flush with the hinge face.Open slightly, by hand, if a nylon hinge with a drill bit to get a decent flush fit.Now,having marked where the holes are by using a piece of masking tape on the hatch lip where there is no carpet,fill in the holes with epoxy putty.Redrill your holes and fit the stainless screws.In order to determine the drill size,measure the body of the screw and not the outside of the spiral area...it has to be a nice tight fit.Before you go to the trouble of filling in the holes,see if you can get away with using the next size up stainless screw to work...again,open the hinge face to let the head be flush
Have fun...you will amaze yourself at the number of swear words you will come up with.

[Navrik]

Awesome advice there Smurf.

Not an easy job Rip but a most gratifying one when done.

Al the best and take lots of pictures so we may share the journey with you!

[Riprap]

Thanks a hell of a lot Smurf. So the carpet does not get adhered to the foam at all? Would you bevel the foam trim away from the hatch openings?
I like the epoxy putty tip as the previous owner and myself have been going up in size and resizing the hinge holes over the years and there is a limit. btw, all the hinges on the whole boat are full length SS courtesy of Escape Boating.

[smurf]

Rip,the foam gets glued to the raw glass deck.When you cut the hatch openings in this foam,you cut the non hinge 3 sides of the hatch straight and the hinge edge of the opening is beveled at 45 degrees...same goes for the hatch lid...hinge side gets bevelled also.This allows the lid space to open against the deck,and now you have raised the deck by 6 mm,you have to give that bit of clearance.Once the foam is laid and all trimmed,you glue the carpet to the foam.Only around the gunwale edge do you trim the foam back about 20mm so the carpet sticks directly to the glass deck.If you don't do this,you will find the carpet edge will easily pull away from the foam,but if stuck to the deck,it is going nowhere.Get the spray contact glue to use on the deck and foam..it is thinner,spreads easily and does not tear the foam up like normal contact glue.Use the thicker contact glue to go onto the underside of the carpet as the thinner glue will seep through and is a job to clean off.
It sounds like your holes will have to be filled and redrilled.Nothing wrong with full length hinges...they support the weight better than small seperate hinges.
Hope this helps..

[Riprap]

Thanks boet, much appreciated.

[Riprap]

For Smurf......., yesterdays posts are lost to neverland. I didn't get chance to read your reply properly about the use of 6mm foam advantage and also how to patch up these chips and cracks in the gel coat around the deck area and gunwale.

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Can you remember from last night........? :roll: :lol: